The Living Art of Portuguese Tiles: Meet Artisan Luis Oliveira

When you picture Portugal, you might see golden beaches or rolling vineyards. Yet another iconic piece of scenery can be found on buildings throughout the country. Azulejos, hand-painted tiles, brighten the interiors and exteriors of churches, palaces, train stations, and people’s homes.

These intricate works trace stories of faith, culture, and community across centuries, turning neighborhoods throughout Portugal into open-air galleries.

Today, we’re travelling to Azeitão, a small town near Lisbon, where master artisan Luis Oliveira keeps this centuries-old craft alive at his workshop, Azulejos de Azeitão.

A passion and a career

For Luis, making azulejos has always been a calling. “I’ve been drawn to their beauty and brilliance since I was young. At 17, I was already working with clay in a small pottery workshop that made stoneware wine jugs. By 21, I found my way into a tile studio, and from that moment on, I knew this was my path. At 45, I decided to follow my own way—to do what was truly in my soul. It was the best decision of my life.”

A bit of azulejo history

The Portuguese azulejo was introduced to the Iberian Peninsula in the 13th century during Moorish rule, reflecting the geometric patterns of Islamic motifs. By the late 1400s, Portuguese palaces and monasteries were decorated with imported tiles from Seville. In the 16th century, Portuguese artists began producing their own tilework, shifting from traditional patterns to scenes. The iconic blue-and-white azulejo style emerged in 17th-century Portugal, inspired by Dutch Delftware, which was influenced by porcelain from the Ming Dynasty.

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Azeitão: A home for tradition

Although Lisbon was historically the heart of tile production, Azeitão became a hub in the 1980s, and Luis reflects on this. “I was the very first employee of Azulejos de Azeitão,” he recalled. “Being already immersed in ceramics, I didn’t hesitate to join. Here, we’re surrounded by history—just next to our factory stands the Palácio and Quinta da Bacalhôa, home to the largest collection of 16th-century tiles in Portugal. It feels like working in the shadow of history itself.”

The craft in seven steps

Making azulejos is a meticulous process that hasn’t changed much since the 16th century, as visitors to Luis’s workshop have seen. During a tour, you can watch artisans guide each piece through seven traditional stages:

• Preparing the clay

• Shaping the tile by hand

• Allowing it to dry naturally

• The first firing

• Hand glazing

• Hand painting

• A final firing to seal the glaze and paint

"I love each stage because they're essential, but glazing stands out to me," says Luis. "It's what gives the tiles their vibrancy and life."

A team effort

Though Luis's passion drives the atelier, he insists it's a collective endeavor. "We are a team of 12. No one creates in isolation. Together, we keep this tradition alive."

Sharing the tradition with the world

Luis notes that he loves creating tiles and especially loves sharing his work. "The most gratifying part is welcoming people into the workshop. Visitors often say they’ve never experienced a factory like this, where they can see artisans working live and truly feel connected to the craft. We welcome around 17,000 visitors each year, and about 30 to 40% of our work goes to the United States. Americans, in particular, adore Portuguese tiles."

An art form that endures

Tiles carry both beauty and meaning. "We are known as the country of tiles. Azulejos rank among the most expressive and recognized art forms in the world. When people take home a tile or panel, they’re bringing a piece of Portugal’s heritage with them."

The craftsmanship of Luis’ workshop has caught the eye of global names. "One of our most valued clients is the French designer Christian Louboutin. We created the tiles for his Hotel Vermelho in Melides, which has become a true showcase for our work."

Even celebrities have been drawn to the charm of azulejos. Luis recalled that "Mick Jagger was photographed on holiday in Portugal, and in so many images you see tiles behind him—it’s part of our national identity."

Luis wrapped up our chat simply: "This is not just work. It’s art. It’s history. And it’s who we are."

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